Sam does Uganda

Mulago....Mulago.....Mulago

2010-06-06T23:57:00.002+10:00

It's not for the faint of heart that is for sure. It was with some trepidation that I arrived for my first shift at Mulago Accident and Emergency Department. In some strange twist of fate or lunacy it is a requirement of the Ugandan Nurses and Midwives Council that all foreign trained nurses should complete eight weeks of supervised practice at a major Kampala hospital in order to gain Ugandan Nurses Registration. Some aspects of this statement are a contradiction of terms of course. On my first day I didn't meet another nurse so I am not sure how the concept of 'supervised' practice is working here! In fact in the first month I have not seen the same nurse twice and if there is a nurse on duty she sometimes disappears for hours on end, after arriving somewhere between nine and ten for a shift that starts at eight!

About an hour into my first shift I was suturing someone's head. Not something that I have ever done before or not something that I had ever imagined doing. I felt pretty nervous about suturing and felt sorry for the man whose head I sutured. This feeling however was short lived as I saw other people suturing and their techniques and standards left alot to be desired. Of course there are some differences between suturing in Mulago and suturing in Australia. In Mulago there is no light, often no sterile field, rusty equipment which often doesn't work, you don't have to spend much time selecting the sutures you just use what is available and usually that is several years out of date and completely inappropriate for the job at hand. So since that tentative first day there has been much suturing and I have got quite good at it although I am really just making it up as I go along. I am also now very adept at shooing away flies before they land on the wound, although I don't think many clinicians worry too much about that here.

I have been working in the trauma room of the accident and emergency department. Most days are a blur of traffic accidents (mostly boda-boda or matatu), mob justice beatings, assaults, domestic violence, burns and bites (yes that is a combination of dog bites and strangely human bites). It is a strange world to exist in. The reality and prevalence of mob justice in Uganda has been a real eye opener. We all know it exists and I have seen it a few times in my neighborhood but to see the magnitude of it in society has been stunning to say the least. I am flabbergasted at the damage humans can do to another, and I am not sure if the punishment ever fits the crime. Mob justice seems to exist whether the crime is real or suspected and the victim has little or no chance to defend himself. Most mob justice victims are beaten with sticks, rocks, fists and feet and present covered in blood with multiple cuts, bruises and abraisions and usually some form of head trauma. More serious cases present with burns (ie beaten then set alight), fractures, sever head trauma, stabbings (eg cut throat) and the occasional gunshot wound. So I guess the motto is.....if your going to be a theif in Uganda make sure you are a really good one and never, never, ever get caught....

The Mulago emergency room lacks the frenzied activity of many emergency rooms back home. This took me a while to work out, then it seemed to become clearer that although there were horrific injuries most patients were relatively stable. After careful thought and consideration and some discussion with my colleagues I discovered that patients in more critical conditions didn't make it to hospital. Many accident and trauma victims that make it to hospital in a critical condition in Australian die at the scene in Uganda. There is no public ambulance service in Uganda, and if there was it would be pretty hard to get through the traffic and the potholes anyway. So patients receive little or no first aid at the scene. The issue of life and death is somewhat random. Many patients arrive in hospital in the back of a police pick up truck after being bundled in there at the accident or incident scene, no first aid has been administered until they arrive in hospital and if they are lucky they may get treatment once they arrive. So there it is if you can somehow get to a hospital you could have a chance of survival, if you can't get to a hospital you will just die on a roadside somewhere and hopefully people will step over you......

I am perplexed by the numbers of head injuries that present usually as a result of assault or traffic accident. Not once have I seen a patient properly assessed for neurological function or injury, occasionally patients are allocated a CT scan or Xray but many are sewn up, sent home without assessement or follow up. Next week I will start working on the Neuro ward so intend to follow up on these questions to find out just how brain injury is cared for in Uganda and what the impact is on the society. Of course the amount of brain injury here could potentially be reduced by the universal wearing of well fitting helmets by boda-boda drivers and passengers. The use of helmets is rare and most helmets are ill fitting.

Working in Mulago is like stepping through a hole in the Universe and arriving in a place like no other that bares no resemblance to anything you have ever known. I have seen some of the most appalling clinical practice that I could ever hope to see. I have see Doctors slap patients, nurses verbally abuse patients and degrade and humiliate them. I see poor practice in terms of infection control. The trauma room is covered in blood which seems to end up on door handles and walls and ceilings, I am not sure how! It is only ever cleaned with water, so I am not sure what microbes and things may be lurking around. Drugs are never checked and vials may be used for multiple patients are often accessed with a dirty needle then used for different patients. IV lines that have been on the floor are connected to patients.....there are too many things to mention.....but it is interesting that this time of practice is to get Ugandan registration and I have only seen bad practice. I am not sure what we are supposed to be learning.

Exsisting at Mulago makes you question the very core of health care and ever society here. It makes me question why I am here. I didn't come to Uganda to change the world (or Uganda) but I did hope to make some small amount of difference. Unfortunately it seems that a thousand lifetimes at Mulago may never make a difference. So the question extends, can I really make a difference when I return to my VSO assignment or should I just admit defeat and head home????? The answer of course isn't simple and perhaps doesn't exist yet. So what are aid workers and volunteers doing in Uganda? Can we help? Can we even comprehend what is going on here? Why in a country with 7% economic growth is there no money put into the health care system? Only questions I am afraid, I may attempt to answer them someday but at the moment I can only confuse myself (and probably you) with them.......

The Serengeti

2010-06-06T23:46:00.002+10:00

They call it endless plains, a special sense of freedom that goes on forever,
Once you've found that place, your body may leave but your heart will never.
The wildebeest were migrating an incredible sight,
And the predators come alive in the pale, fading light.
A lioness carries her cub with tenderness and love,
Vultures and stalks survey the land from above.
The hyenas are hungry, they take what they can get,
While the leopard sleeps in the tree, he's not ready to get up just yet.
A cheetah mother is on guard, protecting her young,
We share special moments with her family in the midday sun.
Alive in the magic of the never ending plains in the soft morning light,
And transfixed by the wonder as day turns to night.
May the Serengeti live on, may the Universe protect her,
And may we always feel the magic, the freedom and the wonder.

The Wedding of the Century

2010-06-06T23:01:00.002+10:00

An arrival from deepest, darkest Africa saw it all begin with a surprise,
The shock defied words, and brought tears to Michael's and Caroline's eyes.
But the weather man said grey clouds would gather in the Melbourne sky,
But we drank champagne and celebrated in brilliant sunshine, stories of rain were surely a lie.
The laughter was all around this was the time to rejoice and celebrate,
A family together, a journey of love, joy and fate.
The Universe agreed and decided to leave her stamp,
Everyone left smiling but feeling pretty damp.
A once in a lifetime storm, the city stood still,
But the party continued, such was the will.
It was the wedding of the century, it was always going to be,
An eternity of love and laughter is all the future can see.

A journey into the badlands

2010-02-04T20:13:00.002+11:00

We ventured way up north we had to cross the line,
Lost in the badlands, but the Kidepo valley looked fine.
We traveled for days on the road to nowhere,
Grimy and covered in red dust , but it was worth it I swear.
For Kidepo is wild, it is rugged and raw,
There's just savanna and mountains stretching wide and far.
We moved into our new home at Pride Rock,
I never wanted to leave, I came to love it a lot.
We ventured further north to the ostriches and the Sudan,
So the ostriches were OK but for the other there THE ban.
But sometimes you have to go where you're not supposed to be,
When your on safari in the badlands you become wild and free.
The creature of Kidepo are struggling to recover and survive,
They too have been victims of war, I hope someday they'll thrive.
The giraffes are endangered they cling to the earth,
Zebras are losing their manes, trying to shake the curse.
So there's peace in Uganda, will they get a chance to regenerate,
Oh but beware of the Sudan and other matters of state.
We had to leave Pride Rock, our wild Kidepo home,
We hold great hope for her creatures, they will never be alone.
For I left a part of myself behind on that day,
Sitting on Pride Rock, gazing over the savanna at play.
I hope to return to visit the badlands again one day,
To retrieve myself from Pride Rock, come what may.

A proposal to VSO

2010-02-04T20:07:00.002+11:00

I shall start by proclaiming 'Dear VSO',
I have to confess I traveled overland to Kidepo.
There's work to be done in the National Park way up there,
We need to make more tracks so we can go everywhere.
My friends and I would be up for the task,
If you let us do this project we'll do anything you ask.
We promise to be good, all your rules we will obey,
We will return to Kidepo and there we will stay.
Because as well as the tracks there are creatures to save,
If you let us help the Zebra and Giraffe we will surely behave.
We promise to stay out of the Sudan,
Because of course we know all about the ban.
We will wear a helmet and wont catch a boda-boda at night,
We will be good, we have seen the light.
Dear VSO please grant our request,
And help us to make Kidepo the best.

The nature walk

2010-02-04T19:56:00.002+11:00

The day was hot and the grass oh so long,
They called it a nature walk but something seemed slightly wrong.
The grass hit me in the face and tickled my arms,
Suddenly walking in the wilds of Kidepo had lost all its charm.
Oh why were we walking through this crazy long grass,
If there was something to see then we would surely walk past.
But the buffalo wasn't stupid he heard us amble on by,
He huffed and snorted as he charged and I wondered why.
Why were in walking in long grass that rendered animals invisible,
We were trapped in a bizarre nature walk, I was feeling quite miserable.
Could it be that the ranger really didn't have a clue,
Or perhaps he'd just gone stark raving mad, that could also be true.
I started to dawdle behind, I'd lost the will to go on,
Surely it would be over soon, we'd been walking so long.
Finally it was over and we could go for a beer,
There's nothing like a Club to restore a little cheer.
So if your ever in Kidepo remember not to go nature walking with the ranger,
You'll be smothered by the long grass within which lay many a hidden danger.

Oh how they love me

2010-02-04T19:32:00.002+11:00

I traversed Uganda through formerly troubled towns,
And found a place called Kidepo where insects abound.
At first they didn't really bother me much,
But then I got bitten, the bites were red, swollen and hot to touch,
Why do they choose me over all of my friends,
I'd like them to share the love around, I don't want to offend.
There are very many flies both tsetse and regular,
And some other flying insects that look really quite bizarre.
Then there are ants and mosquitoes that are only too happy to bite you,
The insects of Kidepo lie in wait when you head to the loo.
Oh how I wish they would all go away,
And leave me to get on with my day.
But I should stop moaning I've no right to complain,
As Kidepo has lion, leopard and cheetah and all sorts of other game.
As I sit in the paradise that is our campsite home,
I watch the creatures of the savanna that are wild and free to roam.
So I forgive you Kidepo for every pesky and biting insect,
Because in so many other ways you are close to perfect.

A Ugandan Christmas Safari

2010-01-06T22:31:00.002+11:00

Looking back on my Christmas safari around Uganda it is hard to know how to describe it properly or where to begin. So I'll just start at the beginning and hope that I can do it justice.

It all started with a death defying drive to Lake Mburo (thanks Wayne). I particularly enjoyed the near misses, the sudden braking and hurtling along the shoulder of the road hoping to avoid a number of large heavy vehicles without slowing down. Although it looked unlikely at times, we arrived safely at Lake Mburo and set up camp under the watchful gaze of a spectacular sunset. We set off the next morning on a game drive on an ever disappearing road which was eventful and time-consuming. We saw many of the creatures that Lake Mburo is known for - zebra, impala, warthogs, topi, birds too numerous to mention, monkeys, warthogs, bush pigs, buffalo, hippos oh and did I mention warthogs. No rare red tree climbing warthogs, still looking for them!

A relatively uneventful drive delivered us the breathtakingly spectacular Lake Bunyoni. In the misty morning light we took a very special boat ride around the various islands of the lake and soaked up the atmosphere and the surroundings. Then it was off to Bwindi with great anticipation for the mountain gorillas. Of course '.. it wasn't the road that Anthony took...'. Yeah, yeah I think that there was a reason for that - it wasn't the road to Bwindi!!! After a three hour detour and another wrong turn we were actually on the road to Bwindi passed the placenta pit and the dodgy road works that you had to pay to go through. Finally there we were in the Impenetrable Forest home to 320 of the last remaining 750 mountain gorillas.

Ah it was all about the GORILLAS. There was a great deal of exitement and anticipation as we set out on the trek of a lifetime. The gorilla permit costs $500 each so it is something one would only really do once in one's life so I was planning to enjoy every minute. The Universe didn't fail to deliver here either, after a ten minute trek (some people trek for up to six hours) we were in the company of about 18 mountain gorillas of all ages and sizes. We were only allowed to spend one hour with them and although when we were with them time seemed to stand still, when it was over it felt like the quickest hour of my life. Words don't really do justice to the experience, it was very special and humbling and magical all at the same time. We spent the afternoon walking in the forest to a series of waterfalls which was pretty spectacular. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest if you ever get the chance go there you will never regret it and never forget it.

Leaving Bwindi and her mountain gorillas behind we headed off to Ishasha. Ishasha there it is again, I just love that word - ISHASHA. Ah yet again she didn't disappoint, Christmas eve saw two lions in a tree and hopes were high for Christmas day. I had earlier asked Santa for two lions in a tree and a leopard for Christmas and I had also drunk some South African wine with the picture of a leopard on the label to give me good leopard karma. Things went a little wrong when we got stuck in a bog for six hours and we had to dig and jack and search for big logs while everyone at home was indulging in turkey, ham, raspberries, pudding with brandy sauce and chocolate covered almonds among other things. We ran out of water and had no lunch but thankfully after alot of hard work we exited the bog at around five thirty! Apparently as it turns out good things happen to those who wallow in mud for six hours. On the way back to our camp Santa, who had had his laugh for the day, delivered up a spectacular leopard in a tree. We were blessed to be able to spend about half an hour with the leopard (we named him Santa) as he did leopard things. He got out of the tree, he sat in the grass, he walked about, he flicked his beautiful tail, he sat on a rock, he marked his territory, he climbed another tree, he surveyed the savana to check for prey and finally he walked away. Magic is the only way to describe it, and for days later I kept checking my camera to confirm that we did actually see a leopard.

We headed to the northern section of QENP and saw two more tree climbing lions. What do lions eat again - people I think if they get out of the vehicle. We stayed at the spectacular campsite number two by the channel but there was tension brewing in the camp. The next day after confirming with google what a rainforest was, luckily Wayne was right all along, we arrived in the foothills of the Rwenzori where we had a spectacular trek in the forest for three hours. Tensions boiled over in the camp over a two second tent. Its a long story but the next day we said goodbye to one of our group and headed off the Murchison Falls, never looking back really.

Murchison Falls were as spectacular as ever and we had a fabulous experience trekking the chimpanzees. At one stage we were surrounded by chimps they were mostly above us and occasionally the odd leaf or branch came down on our heads. One of the lady chimps was on heat and a rather raucous fight ensued which was a little scarey to say the least. But all was forgiven and there was even some chimp mating going on, I had to avert my eyes for a while, well only for a few seconds really because it didn't take too long!

We had a fine time in camp in Murchison as our guide passed out by ten pm, not sure why, but anyway we painted his toe and finger nails and generally took advantage of him while he was sleeping. It wasn't my idea of course and I would like to absolve myself of any responsibility. He spoke of revenge, but it never eventuated which I was thankful for.

We had a fine boat trip up the Nile to Lake Albert passed numerous hippos, huge crocodiles and a fleeting sighting of the very rare shoebill bird. We then spent the night in Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary and had the pleasure of walking with their newest arrival Augustu and his mum Bella and her new boyfriend. There was a bit of tension in the rhino camp and Bella got grumpy with the boyfriend and they both started running towards us. But after goillas, leopard, lions, chimps and all the other creatures the rhino incident hardly even registered with us. Looking back now we were pretty lucky to see the baby who was only born in October and even luckier to see the rhinos so fired up and active.

So it was back to Jinja, although we nearly didn't make it after a very close encounter with a truck exiting a petrol station but I think that we came off better than the matoke that the innocent bystander was carrying!

Then it was New Year's Eve and it was perhaps the most bizzare nye yet, highlighted by a facinating fireworks display. The fireworks didn't really go very high into the air so you felt like you were being shot everytime one went off, there was much screaming in the audience. Of course not all the fireworks seemed to go off and there was alot of smoke filling the venue which luckily was open air. We were a bit worried about surrounding thatched roofs though. Somehow tragedy was averted and we live to tell another story.

So that was it then, the Ugandan Christmas Safari over and done with. Now its back in Kampala and I have discovered a new disease called PSMD. It is also known as Post Safari Mood Disorder and it is affecting many who were out and about in Uganda over Christmas. I think I have a serious case of PSMD but I am hoping to cure it with a trip to Sipi Falls this weekend and a safari in Kidepo national park in a couple of weeks.

Until then I will always be on safari in my mind.........

Endangered but Cherished

2010-01-06T22:20:00.002+11:00

They said '...be prepared you may have to trek all day',
But ten minutes was all it took, we hardly went out of our way.
And then there he was lounging up against a tree,
The silverback relaxed right in front of me.
I caught my breath at the sight of this spectacular creature,
His shimmering silver torso was his finest feature.
His ladies were foraging in the trees up high,
He was waiting for them to come down so he could move on by.
We went deeper into the forest hoping for more of his family to meet,
Gradually the gorillas surrounded us, it was truly a treat.
The tiny baby clung tightly to her mum,
Others were tumbling and playing, having lots of fun.
Only 750 mountain gorillas remain on this earth,
The joy and happiness they bring, proves their true worth.
On a very special day they welcomed me into their home,
May they always be with us, free to forage and roam.

Christmas Cats

2010-01-04T20:10:00.002+11:00

In December 2009 I sat on Santa's knee,
And I asked for a leopard as well as two lions in a tree.
I assured him that I'd been a very good girl,
It would be a fine way to end a year that flew by in a whirl.
Christmas eve he delivered a tree with two lions lounging within,
What a magical way for Christmas to begin.
Now Santa for the leopard, it's a simple request,
For Christmas in Ishasha you should bring out the best.
But Santa's got a dark side, he likes to have a bit of fun,
So he sent us six hours stuck in a bog in the sun.
We were covered in mud, hungry, thirsty and tired,
This was a pretty strange Christmas, I could have broken down and cried.
Then suddenly in the distance there was a cat in a tree,
Stop! Back up! There's a lion up there, cried Nathalie.
But no lion exists with such a curl in his tail,
This was a Christmas leopard, I knew Santa wouldn't fail.
The next thirty minutes were spent in the leopard's company,
It was a magical Christmas for the wild and the free.
So thank you to Santa and every large predatory cat,
I'd like a cheetah in 2010 if you can arrange that

Ode to Wayne

2010-01-04T20:03:00.001+11:00

In the wilds of Uganda, he's not sure what's a road and what's not,
What once was a road seemed to disappear quite a lot.
He can sniff out a gorilla where it's not supposed to be,
Perhaps they are kindred spirits both wandering and free.
He's fun to spend Christmas with, six hours stuck in a bog,
And a never ending quest to find a big log.
All was forgiven with a leopard and a smile,
A day to remember for quite a while.
The champagne brought him undone, down and out by ten,
He awoke with black and gold nails, how could that happen.
Wayne is so brave, in the frontline of the fireworks display,
He protected me from so many dangers that day.
Sometimes he is naughty and sometimes he is nice,
But if he passes out before midnight, he's gonna pay the price.

The Best and the Deadliest

2009-12-15T23:13:00.003+11:00

When you live in Kampala it's fun to go to Jinja for a break,
Its calm and laid-back, there's the Nile and the lake.
The best road in Uganda runs between each city,
And it's here where many die, it seems such a pity.
Strange but true, there's not a pothole in sight,
But a truck hurtling towards you can give you quite a fright.
Ugandans are relaxed, they are patient and calm,
But when in charge of a vehicle they develop a sense of alarm.
It seems essential to overtake, urgently and at great speed,
To know what lies just out of sight, there is absolutely no need.
Best not know what what approaches at speed in your lane,
Just pray you die quickly and feel little pain.
If you arrive at your destination you feel very fortunate,
But it's never guaranteed, I just put it down to fate.

The Ugandan Nurse

2009-12-15T23:09:00.002+11:00

She is tough and resourceful, she leaves us far behind,
Some say she is lazy and not very kind.
But I say she's seen a few things in her time,
She works with few resources and in wards covered in grime,
In the morning she is damp dusting to make the place clean,
Then she deals with a tragic story behind every screen.
There is HIV and cancer too far advanced to survive,
Young people are dying, there's no way to keep them alive.
It's so hard for her to cope with, so she builds up a wall,
She just does what she can, but she can't help them all.

Ibulanku

2009-12-15T23:01:00.002+11:00

Alanta and Pablo took us to their village far away,
And their Ugandan friends proudly showed us around for the day.
They welcomed us with a greeting, a handshake and a smile,
To greet everyone in the village took quite a while.
We were lead out to see the crops in the field,
They will never go hungry, it was quite a yield.
We helped hull the maize so it was ready to go,
To be sundried and somehow turned into posho.
They washed our hands and invited us to eat,
They made us feel special, it was quite a treat.
With a bag full of food they bid us farewell,
We left the village happy with an amazing story to tell.
So thank you Ibulanku for welcoming us from the start,
You will always hold a very special place in our heart.

Uganda - the best and the worst

2009-12-15T22:07:00.002+11:00

The last week has shown me the best and the worst of Uganda.

Work - the Best
The best would have to be the incredible warmth and welcoming I have received from my colleagues on Hope Ward as I continue my clinical time there. I have been struck by the resourcefulness and courage of the nurses that work there. I felt a bit like a fluffy pampered Persian kitten in with all the alley cats. They take life as it comes, they rarely complain and they make do with whatever they can find. We made a bucket of saline from scratch, that is boiling the tap water adding saline and waiting for it to cool and we made a soap and water enema (yes I know it is unheard of these days) using soap and lathering it in between the hands until the right consistency had been obtained. People keep telling me that Ugandan nurses don't care, well I am not sure I agree. I believe that they care but I think that the extreme conditions they work under grind them down and they 'appear' not to care. I think they care a great deal but there is little support and they are just doing the best they can.

Work- the Worst
The worst of nursing work in Uganda would have to be the poor resources available in the hospitals and the poor condition of some of the patients. Nurses work with nothing, something we just wouldn't accept in Australia but something Ugandan nurses have no choice about. The only dressing supply available is gauze and subsequently it is used for everything even though it is useless against some of the extraordinary wounds that you encounter here. They did have hydrogen peroxide however, which got poured over a patients fungating leg wound, doing little good except for causing the man extreme pain and possibly killing what precious little good skin remained (if anyone from Clark is reading this don't tell Nik!).

The patients that you see here are very challenging in so many ways. The average age is much, much, much younger than what you would find in Australian hospitals and because of the lack of preventative health you see people presenting with end stage conditions which can only get palliative care as the condition is so advanced. This includes things such as cancers that are detected late to HIV/AIDS that is ignored due to the perisisting social stigma until it is way too late. It is a challenge for Ugandan nurses to be confronted with this every day. They are smart and knowledgable and they are caring for people with advanced conditions that could be cured if they were detected early. Breast cancer is a significant issue here but unfortunately there are not many survivors as early detection is an extremely new and misunderstood concept. As a result there are alot of fungating breast cancers that can only be treated palliatively. Now back to the good things...

Social - the Best
My friend Hazel and I went to stay with some other friends who have been working for three months in a little villiage about an hour or two (depending on traffic) passed Jinja. They have been doing public health education from a clinic that was set up by the Ugandan High Commissioner for Australia. It was a pretty impressive clinic actually but again by what we are used to it was quite sparse. They are doing some great work there and the outlying community has good access to health care and education so that is fantastic.

The real highlight of the weekend as the hospitality of the residents of the village. We were welcomed with open arms and taken around all the houses. We had to do all the traditional Ugandan greetings at each house so it gave us a good chance to practice the language. We have learned some Luganda and although the language of this area is Lusogo there are lots of similarities and we seemed to get by OK. We were taken out to see all the crops and the brick making area. They also taught us how to hull maize (we call it corn), that they turn into posho. It is important to add here that posho is a thick white substance that looks like solidified clag glue and should be banned, I am not sure how you could get a thing as fine as a corn-cob to turn into posho!

Anyway just as we were saying our goodbyes - that take almost as long as the hellos - one of the grandmothers came along and had cooked us food. We ate cassava, and BBQ maize and jackfruit. Then we finally left laden down with paw-paws, eggs, mangos, cassava, popping corn and jackfruit. The village folk were so incredibly warm and welcoming it was really a magical experience. It is normal for Ugandans to be so hospitable and to give so readily to visitors. We also got to visit the village's chicken farm which was surprisingly interesting. I would also like to report that we found the best eggs in Uganda, I think they are doing something right as the eggs were fresh and yellow yolked. Most of the eggs here have a very strong flavour have yolks that are a pale lemon colour, I think it's because chickens often eat alot of rubbish and not much else. Some of the villiagers helped us carry the produce home and even returned Hazel's mobile phone that she had accidently misplaced earlier. This day was the very, very best that Uganda has to offer, but there is a flip side....

Social - the Worst
Yesterday after a quick change after work I left the house to head out to the movies. A few meters down the road a scuffle was taking place. The scuffle turned nasty and a man was kicking and punching a younger man who couldn't have been more than about 16 or 18 years of age. I had to actually walk around them giving them a wide berth. I knew not to stop and intervene as this was a scene to stay well away from. It was as if the street was suspended in stillness (expept for the beating) for a few minutes as bystanders watched and surveyed the scene. Suddenly the stillness was broken and men started running from all directions to join in the mellee. I could hear the punches and the kicks as I walked away but worst of all I would hear the screams of the boy who was being beaten. The whole situation made me feels quite sick and coming the day after we had seen such warmth and kindness from Ugandan's it was particularly hard to bear. I think there were tears in my eyes as I walked away and left the man to his fate... whatever that may be.

I have no idea what the issue was that precluded the beating but I know that 'mob-justice' is commonplace in Uganda. Recently I read that a man was beheaded by a mob for being suspected of stealing a chicken, not quite sure if the punishment fitted the crime there. So perhaps it was a domestic issue but more likely the boy was suspected of some wrong doing and had to endure the consequences. As a 'muzungu' or 'white person' you cannot become involved no matter how strongly you feel. Having to walk away and leave the boy to his fate was almost as sickening to me as having to witness the incident in the first place.

Ugandans are essentially good, kind, relaxed and warm people but every now and then something happens to make you question every expereince that you have had in this country so far.....

Nursing, traveling and dancing in Uganda - a whole new world

2009-12-07T23:57:00.004+11:00

Last week I had my first clinical shift in a Ugandan hospital. Until now I have been working a lot on planning clinical placements for students including developing practice portfolios and clinical guidelines. All that work needs to be done but it does get a bit boring after a while so I negotiated to work one day a week clinically. I am now working on Hope Ward each Wednesday. Hope Ward is the Charity Ward of the International Hospital Kampala (IHK). The University where I work is located on the third floor of the Hospital and while they are different organisations they have a close relationship both physically and financially. IHK is a private hospital and subsequently patients have to pay for their health care - there is insurance available. Of course not everyone in Uganda can afford it so that is where Hope Ward comes into it. Patient's on Hope Ward have come across hard times and their medical costs are covered.

Although IHK is very well resourced by Ugandan standards it was still a bit of a shock to my system working there clinically. Stock levels are very low and sometimes the most basic of medications or supplys simply aren't available. The thing that struck me the most however was the suffering of the patients. The ward is a mixture of adults and children but it's pretty different to a hospital ward in Australia as the life expectancy here is around 50 years so you don't see many elderly people. The children I looked after were either at really advanced stages of illness or had shocking stories to tell. There was a twelve year old girl with advanced cancer and brain mets, so only palliative treatment was an option and a little fella of about five who had HIV/AIDS and was barely conscious, being tube fed and having almost continuous seizures. Then there was a young boy who had been tortured and kept in a cupboard by his father for three months and was suffering significant trauma as you can imagine. The adults weren't fairing much better, there was woman in her twenties with advance HIV/AIDS and a man who was about to lose his leg (I am not sure why).

Half way through the day a young man of six came in for his first lot of chemo to treat his lymphoma. He looked very smart in his brown pin striped pants and waist coat and white shirt, his Grandma had dressed him up for his first trip to the city. But he was so lethargic he could hardly move and when the nurse put the IV in his hand he didn't even flich. I couldn't imagine that happening at home. In Uganda many cancers that we pick up early and that get treated and often cured in Australia present as advanced cancers. It really is heart breaking to see how much suffering people go through because health care is not available to them. Access to quality health care is something we just take for granted....

There are many other things we take for granted, especially in a nursing context. I was interested to see that alcohol swabs don't exist here, you have to squirt 'surgical spirit' on a cotton ball and that does the trick. There is not nice clear occlusive dressing to cover the IV site its an abrasive tape - kind of like a cross between sleek and elastoplast. This even goes on the kids. When you was your hands when working you use a bar of soap (the same bar for everyone), and to dry them you have to go to secret cupboard quite a way away from the sink to get the paper towel which is in quite short supply. The discharge medications come up in plastic bags but there are no directions on it so sometimes the patients get confused and take them all at once! I am starting to see why people only live til they are 50.

Despite the hardships they nurses were a pretty friendly and resourceful lot. They don't get much ancillary help so they have to do alot of errands and cleaning and there was very little engagement with the patients. That is the challenge infront of me - to find a way to turn that around. Easier said than done but we will see what happens. The workload of IHK was pretty good - about 6:1 but it goes up to about 6:1 when the ward is full. I recently heard about a hospital up-country in Lira where the ratio of patient to nurse is 250:1!!!!!! That is not a mistake. It is something we can't even imagine and that was in a children's area. If you have oxygen you get cared for inside the walls of the hospital but if not you are generally outside on the lawn if there is one. This story was from Northern Uganda which is just coming out of decades of war, bloodshed and misery. I think there is alot of work to be done there. So next time you go to work and there is someone off sick and you're a bit short staffed spare a thought for your colleagues in Lira - it suddenly wont seem so bad!

Other than work there was a trip to Jinja for the day. Oh a road trip is always a fine adventure in Uganda. The trip there was entertaining, highlighted by a thousand stops to try to pick up passengers even if they didn't want to go where we were headed and a change of matatu mid way to one with heavy plastic covered seats. Generally though the trip there, although slow, was relatively painless. Coming back! Now that is a whole new story. I have never seen so many trucks. Trucks that were often coming towards me in the same lane - until the last minute when they turn away somehow. There was much overtaking in all directions and many, many, many near death experiences. I have now come to understand why the best road in Uganda is also the deadliest. I have to travel that road again at the weekend so if you never see me again.....oh you'll know what happened.

There was working.....there was travelling......oh that's right and then there was dancing.......................By far a highlight (although a reluctant one) was our dancing performance at the VSO BBQ. Our friend committed our services without much consultation so as it turned out it was one in all in...We had been taking Ugandan dancing lessons and were only up to lesson number three so as you can imagine we were pretty bad. We had a percussion band and singer and we were dressed in African costumes complete with wiggley, hairy skin thingy tied on the bottom. We really looked a treat. There were four of us Gosia, Saskia, Hazel and I and when we went on stage the crowd were cheering wildly. It was great fun and I think the furry bottoms were our salvation. I wonder if anyone has it on video.............

A poem about not being on safari

2009-11-24T20:47:00.002+11:00

When I am on safari I feel alive and free,
But life's not like that all the time, oh why can't it be?
Back in Kampala everything is crazy,
There is noise and pollution sometimes my mind gets hazy.
Every day in the morning I trundle to work down the street,
Passing goats, cows, chickens and many random Ugandans to greet.
I arrive at the office and to work hard I try,
But my mind wonders off, to the African bush it does fly.
I dream of the wind in my hair and the sun on my skin,
The hint of lion, elephant, hippo, or perhaps a leopard will step in.
So why can't I be on safari everyday,
Life would be so fine in every single way.

Ode to grasshoppers

2009-11-23T22:01:00.002+11:00

I like grasshoppers when they're lively and green,
To cut of their legs and fry them seems really mean.
But they say it's a delicacy and a must in this town,
So I thought I should try it, with some beer to wash them down.
I didn't like the way their eyes looked up at me,
But they were dead and deep fried, so those eyes couldn't see.
When you got up close to the bowl of grasshoppers they really did smell,
To convince yourself they were tasty was a pretty hard sell.
In reality they tasted like chip-oil that had been used for at least a week,
They culminated in a belly-ache the next day that left me feeling quite weak.
A couple of days after the event a live grasshopper landed on me,
it was so pretty and green, so alive and free.
I vow never to eat another grasshopper as long as I live,
They are such a fine creature with so much to give.

Intolerable boredom

2009-11-23T21:42:00.002+11:00

Is this session on decentralisation every going to end,
I have no idea what he's talking about, I'm being driven around the bend.
If only he would stop talking, now, straight away,
I would be so happy, it would bring an end to the day.
But on and on and on and on and on he goes,
It is making me glum, I am thinking of many woes.
If I get run over or fall in a ditch on the way home tonight,
I will have spent my last hours in intolerable boredom, it just wouldn't be right.
Oh what can I do to make it all stop,
We haven't got all night you know, I have to go to the shop.
A desperate moment requires a desperate measure,
It might be wrong to poison him but it would give me great pleasure.
It would have to be a potion that would work very fast,
Something like what Romeo and Juliet used, there would be peace at last.
But also I have no poison, I am trapped in this place,
I shall have to resort to putting a pillow over my face.
Oh there is no pillow I have looked all around.
Perhaps I could disappear into a hole in the ground.
Oh I think it's official it's never going to be over,
There would be more chance of finding a four leaf clover.
He is still talking, going on and on,
Now I am starting to feel quite wan.
Everyone is restless, Ed and Michelle just made a run for it,
They are very clever, the rest of us just stay and sit.
My bottom is getting sore, I think its lost blood supply
And others are getting attacked by small creatures that fly.
Oh no surely someone is coming to save us,
They could send in the army if it's not too much fuss.
We could escape to exile in the DRC,
It might not be perfect but at least we'd be free.
Oh we're onto the conclusion could it be ending at last,
If only there was a remote control that could make him go fast.
If it doesn't finish soon I think I might die,
It would be such a waste, folk would be wondering why.
Oh he's finished at last no need to snuff it,
I'm glad I survived now its time to split.
Oh my god! No questions please,
I can't even breath now, I am starting to wheeze.
Please finish now, it's almost five,
And most of us are barely alive.
He's still going, I am not sure what language he talks,
I hope that when I finally get up my legs can still walk.
Oh my god it's the end at last,
Thanks for the memories but it was hardly a blast.

Gosia

2009-11-23T21:37:00.002+11:00

My friend Gosia is really, really hot,
All the men in Uganda love her a lot.
They are always declaring their undying love,
They say they fit together like a hand in a glove.
I must learn from Gosia what I am doing wrong,
I would like some undying love in the form of a song.
I think it's because I'm scruffy and I don't wash my hair,
I just can't attract any hot men, it really isn't fair.
So I will go and have a bath and spruce up myself,
I am sure to find a man so I don't get left on the shelf!

Fun, friends, grasshoppers and ICT2

2009-11-20T17:51:00.002+11:00

Well it's been a few weeks of safari free life in Kampala and how I miss it. Alas a girl can't stay on safari forever so it's back to reality and everyday life. Despite the total lack of large predatory animals it has been an interesting few weeks culminating in our second week of VSO training (ICT2), a great opportunity to catch up with everyone and reflect on our first two months in country. Did I say two months, I can't beleive that, sometimes I feel as though I have been here for so much longer and at other times I wonder at how fast the time has gone.

Last weekend I helped out at the Hope Ward Fun Run in Kampala, I took people's money (but resisited from embezzling it!) and generally helped out. It was pretty hot and hilly out on the course and I admired the folk who competed. This weekend is the Kampala Marathon, that is only for the very, very brave I think. Anyway there was a good turnout for the fun run that raises money for Hope Ward that is a charity ward at the International Hospital Kampala that provides health care to those who can't afford it, a very worthwhile cause indeed.

Unfortunately I discovered the fine vanilla milkshake at the New York Kitchen in the carpark of Garden City in Kampala. It is a fine thing indeed but am in danger of becoming addicted as are some of my friends. I think life in Kampala in general finds ways of burning it off so I might be saved from a life of obesity.

This week has been characterised by ICT2 which has been a fabulous opportunity to catch up with everyone especially those who have been upcountry. I am not sure if I learned alot during the training but it was lots of fun and there was a fair bit of laughter going on. I seemed to get the role of social organiser, so there were a few dinners and general merriment. One of my friends organised a Ugandan dancing lesson which was lots of fun and a seriously good workout. I was feeling it a bit in the bottom and hamstrings after. I can assure everyone that it is much harder than it looks. We will try again next week and have plans for a grand performance in the future - but we may be dreaming!!

Feeling adventurous during the week we decided to partake in that fine Ugandan declicacy the grasshopper. It is particularly popular around the area that I live. The are sold in plastic tubs, already fried and ready to eat. I have since learned that it is better to buy them fresh and cook them yourself, but really there is a limit in what a girl can do. So we had ready to eat grasshoppers as an appetiser before dinner one night. It had great comic value but I really can't vouch for their gastronomic value. They tasted like month old chip oil and looked a bit like shiny overgrown maggots and the smell if you got too close to them wasn't so appetising. Unfortunately one stray grasshopper fell into my beer, which was when everything started to go astray. If anyone fancies grasshoppers for a quick snack, please think again. They may poison your beer and cause a belly-ache the next day. Proceed with caution!!

The week did produce lots of inspiration for poetry and there have been some fine literary masterpieces created. Poems to follow but for now we shall see what next week brings......

The Great Beer Hair-rinsing Experiment

2009-11-12T16:17:00.004+11:00

It was something that seemed like a good idea at the time,
But many have exclaimed that such a waste of beer is surely a crime.
In the name of science, it just had to be done,
And we'd all gone a bit bonkers, too much time in the sun.
So at exactly beer-o'clock we got ready by the pool,
Draped in green towels we were looking pretty cool.
The Nile Special was poured with great care over my head,
It tingled as it went on, 'that means it's working' they said.
The experiment was conducted with great precision,
Everyone had a role to play, there was no indecision.
Jan massaged my head and I drank one more beer,
The non-believer among us thought we were all queer.
I rinsed off the beer in the best shower I've had in a while,
I came out feeling fresh, looking lean and agile.
As the hours went by my hair started to shine,
If I say so myself it was looking pretty fine.
So the experiment is over and the results are in,
To rinse your hair in beer is not such a sin.
It's out with shampoo, I'm afraid its become a has-been,
A beer-rinse once a month will keep your locks shiny and clean.

Boda-Boda Etiquette

2009-11-12T16:06:00.002+11:00

When your on the boda-boda it pays to relax,
And it's also good if you travel with a pair of modesty pants.
Going through the Jinja crossroads can get a bit hairy,
But never let the boda driver know that you're finding it scary.
Cool calm and collected that's how you should be,
Try to squeeze your legs together if you don't want to lose a knee.
A helmet is not necessary, best feel the wind in your hair,
And remember never get on until you've agreed on the fare.
People will tell you not to take a boda-boda at night,
But just travel with a friend and it will be alright.
The bodas transport us all around this fine town,
If we follow these rules they'll never let us down

Tree Climbing Lions

2009-11-09T21:22:00.003+11:00

Lions are sturdy, they are big and strong,
Lounging in the fig tree is just not where they belong.
But there they are, just hanging around,
It's those pesky tsetse flies that keep them far from the ground.
They are not very graceful climbing in or out of the tree,
The stress of it all can make them want to wee.
A tree climbing lion is a wonderful sight,
And even more spectacular under the full-moon light.

Thank you Helen

2009-11-09T21:19:00.002+11:00

Thanks for taking me to Queen Elizabeth National Park,
When all is said and done it was quite a lark.
I keep dreaming of lions, chimps and elephants,
It took quite a while to wash the dirt out of my pants.
When I'm in the African bush I feel alive and free,
So close to nature, no pretending it's just me.
Queen Elizabeth or the Delta, which is the best?
I need a few more visits to each to answer in earnest.

Ode to Paddy

2009-11-09T21:11:00.002+11:00

My new friend Paddy wears speedos so blue,
And he sunbathes his inner arms, yes it's weird but true.
Sometimes his chakras are aligned, and sometimes they are not,
But he doesn't let that bother him, not a little or a lot.
White, red, bottle or box, he likes to savor a wine,
But I upset him when I told him it tastes like urine.
Paddy's going home with lots of stories to tell,
So it's goodbye for all of us in Uganda, we wish you well.

Magic moments and a false sense of disappointment

2009-11-09T20:02:00.003+11:00

A week out west seemed to be just the thing to celebrate six weeks in Uganda. When settling into a strange new world one needs a little adventure to keep one motivated and inspired. Although inspiration is not something I need to go looking for in Uganda, I find it all around me everyday.

So the week started with an excursion over the equator to Lake Mburo and a fine cruise on the river at sunset, followed by a magical evening by the campfire under a clear sky and a full moon. In the morning while walking the leopard was near. The impalas had spotted him but he was too slick for us. Although evidence of the leopard is all around I wont be convinced of its existence until I spot one with my own two eyes. I think someone invented the myth of the leopard to keep people returning to Africa in the hope of seeing the elusive creature.

Hopes were high as we ventured into Ishasha. Hmmmmn ISHASHA I just love the sound to the word. But is more than just a word, it just could be paradise. As the light was failing we ventured out in search of the famous Tree Climbing Lions of Ishasha. The sun was setting, time was running out, there was a sense of disappointment...... a false sense of disappointment as it turned out as there lounged the lions high off the ground in a lone fig tree as the sun set behind us. It was a truely amazing sight which almost defies words. As the sun set, the full moon took over, it was a very special time, moments that will stay with me forever. Reluctantly we left the lions in the tree and set up our tents in the dark. The night held a multitude of interesting noises. At one stage the baboons went crazy - was there a predator near? A leopard perhaps?????

The next morning we had a wonderful drive in the savanah but the previous evening had wet our appetite for tree climbing lions, we weren't satisfied. Alas there seemed to be no lions in the trees this morning there was a sense of disappointment....... a false sense of disappointment as it turned out as close to our campsite was a lioness in a tree. She was uncomfortable, hot and bothered. I think she had just picked the wrong tree poor lady. After wiggling and snarling for a while she very ungainfully got down from her tree, had a big wee and disappeared into the thickets, away from prying eyes. It was with slightly heavy hearts that we bid farewell to Ishasha and her lions and said hello to the Bush Camp, another slice of paradise in Queen Elizabeth National Park. The outdoor bathroom was something to behold. There just something truly wild about showering to the serenade of hippos, warthogs and a million unidentified birds and insects.

With a rainy start to the day we set off to Mweya. There was a sense of disappointment.....but the rain cleared and we took a wonderful journey by boat on the channel. There were many, many hippos, buffalos, birds and even crocodiles. But our expectations were high, we wanted to see elephants. But where they are usually many there was only one. High on a hill stood a lonley elephant singing yodelli-yodelli-yo-ho-ho. There was a sense of disappointment......a false sense of disappointment as it turned out as on our journey back to the bush camp we saw far away elephants that got closer and closer and converged to cross the road just behind our vehicle. There were big ones and little ones and even some elephant kissing going on, we felt very special. We left the ellies behind and continued our journey with the Rwenzori mountains reflecting in the lakes as we drove by. Hmmmn we thought now for some regular grounds dwelling lions. We took a detour on our lion hunt but the grazing creatures of the savanah were looking a bit too relaxed. No lions tonight, but we had been lucky in Ishasha. Still we where keen for lions and there was a sense of disappointment...... a false sense of disappointment for there in the grass were a couple of lions cubs popping their heads up. And what was that dark shadow near the truck.... we had stumbled upon the whole pride. A big black maned male, a lioness and three mischevious cubs, we felt truly blessed. We watched the family frollicking for ages and just as we were thinking we would leave them to get ready for hunting, another lioness appeared from behind bush. Who she? We all exclaimed. Then there was a movement in the grass. What's that? Oh my goodness, she had with her two tiny cubs who mustn't have been more than a few weeks old. They can't have been back with the pride for long. The lioness goes away to have her cubs and keeps them hidden for a while before she returns to the fold. It was a really special time to share with the pride with all the generations. I never wanted to leave. Life surely doesn't get any better than this.

After a contented sleep dreaming of lions of all sizes we set off into the gorge the next day on foot in search of our closest relative the chimpanzee. It was hard work in the forest, we searched and we searched and we searched, three hours went by and we were still searching. Twisting and turning, being bitten by ants. Reality hit, we may not get to see the chimps. There was a sense of disappointment....... a false sense of disappointment as it turned out as suddenly there was a commotion, screaching and scrambling, the forest came alive. There they were. We spent an amazing 20 minutes or so with the chimps trying to observe then, snap their picture and follow their movements. They were amazing and so human in their expressions and behaviours, it was very special.

So it was offical there was no disappointment to be endured. The universe was truly looking after us. We reluctantly retreated from the Ugandan bush and headed to Fort Portal and some home cooking, a challenging bike ride, a hike up a number of steep hills and a beer hair rinse, all in the name of science! Hmmmn did I say a beer hair rinse??? Well that's another story.......

Ode to the speed humps

2009-10-27T23:28:00.002+11:00

The road was fine not a pothole in sight,
But then appeared the speed humps, we got quite a fright.
A blow to the head and a knock to the knee,
As the speed humps kept coming, oh how can it be?
Then the road it was smooth, aaah the end of the humps,
We relaxed a little too soon because back came the bumps.
They were back with a vengeance, every car length or two,
It sounds like a joke, but I am not kidding you it's true.
When they are no longer needed, the road gang chips them away,
To reconstruct them again on another road on another day.
So alway remember that a Ugandan road is a very dangerous place,
If you don't fall into a pothole you'll get bounced over a speed hump and damage your face!

Ode to cheese

2009-10-27T23:24:00.002+11:00

My friend Helen has a fridge full of cheese,
It's a valuable thing in Uganda, it doesn't grow on trees.
Some is soft and some is hard,
And some may even be made of lard.
Before we came here we all took cheese for granted,
For we could have as much or as little as we wanted.
But now cheese is expensive so we treat it like gold,
In the fridge at Helen's place it is staying pretty cold.
So here's to the cheese and all the joy it may bring,
I shall sneak into the fridge at midnight, no-one will suspect a thing!

Rhinos, waterfalls and speed bumps

2009-10-26T23:20:00.003+11:00

Wow that was a fine way to spend a weekend. We departed Kampala early to head off into the bush but man we didn't expect to have to encounter the speed bumps from hell - what were they thinking. Road travel is always an adventure in Uganda! There was a section of road just outside Masindi on the way to Murchison Falls National Park that is kind of under-construction. In order to prevent cars from traveling too fast there are a series of speed bumps. Actually there are thousands of them about two car lengths apart for about eight kilometers. Of course they just appeared, so there were a few minor head injuries going over the first few before we planted ourselves and hoped to survive without a traumatic brain injury or serious neck issues. Luckily I guess, as I am not sure what the Rehab facilities are like here!

Anyway apart from the speed bumps and the puncture and the frequent visits to gas stations (every hour - must have has the vehicle with the smallest gas tank in history) and the steadily deteriorating roads - we managed to get to Murchison Falls without too much drama!! We stayed in Safari Tents at a pretty cool campsite with resident warthogs. On the way to our home for the weekend we stopped at the top of Murchison Falls which was absolutely breathtaking. The vista looking down the chasm of the Falls to the Nile below was just so stunning and will stay with me forever. There was fabulous light when we were there too so all was very, very fine. The volume and power of the water crashing down was thunderous. If anyone is looking for somewhere to go that's a bit out of the way......

Saturday we went game driving but we missed seeing the lion by slighly more than a whisker. Some others saw her though, and she was a beauty. We had to settle for giraffe, elephants, hippos, heartibeasts, cobs, a variety of birds and more than a couple of warthogs. After dodging the apple eating baboon we set out on an afternoon of leisure on the Nile. We took a boat trip to see the Falls from the river. It was a sensational afternoon. We saw hippos, even an albino one and a herd running which was a very amusing sight. There were also crocodiles and elephants and birds and hippos and hippos and hippos. Oh and did I mention we saw some hippos. They are in no danger of extinction, in fact they are may just be taking over the world. Can someone let me know if they are spotted in the Derwent! The Falls from the Nile were pretty special as well and we floated along the river back to our camp as the sun was setting over the Nile, it was magic really. Had to celebrate with a Nile Special of course.

On Sunday we made tracks back to Kampala and stopped at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. Rhinos became extinct in Uganda after the turmoil of the last decades but they are setting about reintroducing them and doing a fabulous job. You can trek to see some rhinos. They are not totally wild but hopefully eventually will be and the rhino will be back in the forests of Uganda. We treked only a short while in the grasslands before we found a couple of rhinos. A male and female, I couldn't believe how close we got to them. The male got up at one stage and we got a really good look at him. Not really a traditionally handsome creature but spectacular nevertheless. I was a bit worried with my experience of being chased by a Nepali rhino in the forefront of my mind. This couple were pretty docile however and not so interested in charging us - thankfully.

Oh then it was back to Kampala and the cold reality of fearing for one's life with every footstep. Oh Kampala, I love you and your tretcherous streets and person sized potholes and cows and goats in the middle of the road and crazy drivers. How joyful it is to know one has survived the roads for another day........

Today I met Agnes

2009-10-23T00:38:00.002+11:00

Far from her village in the capital city,
She makes the most of each opportunity, she commands no pity.
Life is hard in Kampala but she smiles through each day,
But yearns for her family in a place far away.
It's many years now since her dear Daddy died,
Leaving Mummy behind with 8 children by her side.
TB and Malaria claimed his young life,
And that 'other' disease gave this family more strife.
When AIDS claimed her Aunty, like so many others,
Many more children were missing their mothers.
So the families united, together in grief,
To still have each other must have been some releif.
Together they worked hard in the fields every day,
To strive for a better future it was the only way.
Now Agnes is studying so she can give care to another,
Lessons learned well from the hand of her mother.

Ode to moving house

2009-10-23T00:34:00.002+11:00

I moved down the road, on a fine sunny day,
Loaded with my life possessions, I got lost on the way.
Finally with glee I found my new abode,
It was quite a releif to lighten the load.
But inside was grimey, never cleaned in a year,
The power was off and cholera was near.
It was too much to bear so we called in Medina,
She cleaned high and low, you should have seen her.
Then there was power, what a fine place to reside,
When the water deserted us we may well have cried.
But the water came back with quite a blast,
Oh happy days we are home at last.

Ode to no water

2009-10-22T22:12:00.002+11:00

Oh how it would be if the tap would turn and water come out,
There would be so much joy, I would dance and shout.
I could have a shower and the toilet would flush,
Oh yes that would really be quite lush.
But while the tap it may turn, alas it is silent and dry,
And I am left grimey and wondering why.

Crocodiles and Chaos in the time of Cholera

2009-10-12T23:36:00.003+11:00

Were to start, that is the question, so much seems to have happened in the last week it seems more like a month, so I hope I don't forget anything important.

The work week went well, there were a few highlights. Firstly we had a meeting with the Ugandan Nurses council which actually went really well and was very positive and lively and we think we can really do some great work with them ... and believe me there is a lot that needs to be done. During the meeting we were given morning tea which consisted of tea/coffee, peanuts and a banana wrapped in a serviette. We hadn't eaten the banana by the end of the meeting but my colleague from the Uni Gerald suggested that we should eat the banana. It seemed appropriate to eat the banana as it had been given to us and we didn't want to offend. So we sat around with the registrar at the end of the meeting eating bananas which kind of struck me as being very funny and I still have a chuckle about it now. I can't imagine that happening at home.

Also on the work front I have new role taking profile pictures of the students. We were given some laptops by a charity in Belgium and the students went in to a lottery and the lucky ones have to have profiles done so students in Belgium can select someone to give to laptop to and keep in touch with them over the course of their studies. The photography has been fun and given me a chance to get to know the students which has been good.

Cholera broke out down the street which was a bit of a thing really. So far there about twenty cases and three deaths in our area but more in other parts of Kampala. They are expecting it to peak in about 6 weeks, so the 'best' is yet to come I guess. I went down to look at the area today, it is a slum area that backs onto the disused railway tracks and a swamp. Man it was an eyeopener. Very squalid conditions. The little shanty houses don't have toilets and they have to pay to use the latrines of which there are only a few and people cant afford to pay so they just toilet on top of the rubbish. You could see human excrement on the rubbish piles which were numerous. Then the rain comes and washes everything into the streets and houses I guess. And the funny thing is that just the next suburb is quite well off and some very rich folk with nice houses where I am sure they don't have to pay for the toilet. Uganda is certainly a place of great contrasts. Some folk have absolutely nothing, not even a toilet and others drive around in BMW 4 wheel drives. Hmmmn...

Friday this was a public holiday for Ugandan Independence Day which ment three days off so a great chance to get out of the city and see a bit of Uganda. On Thursday we had drinks after work and I was walking home with one of my housemate and I swear I had only had one beer but suddenly I disappeared into a ditch at the side of the road. One minute walking along, next minute in ditch, wouldn't read about it really. Anyway I got quite a shock as you can imagine and am still wearing the battle scars to prove it. I was actually quite proud. That was my first fall in Uganda. I've had a few more since then!!

So off the Jinja on Friday for whitewater rafting which was pretty exhillarating to say the least. And I may say it was incredibly terrifying especially as we flipped our raft twice and ended up in the drink in the middle of the hugest rapids I care to imagine. I am not sure why but I didn't die, so that was good but it was touch and go. The second time we came out someone landed on my head and I went way down into the neverland, but came up eventually and live to tell the tail. I only felt partially alive however in the evening of the rafting as I think half the Nile water was lodged in my right ear

On Saturday we hired bikes and rode around a bit but lazed around a bit too as it kept raining and we found a good spot to spend the afternoon so that ended up being a bit of a lazy afternoon but a good time was had by all. Sunday was much more adventurous as we got lost on a short walk, which turned out to be a long walk without any water that was highlighted by our accidently stumbling to the path of three crocodiles and then getting lost in a snake infested sugar cane field. Somehow more by luck than good management we managed to survive that experience also and made it back to our camp although I was feeling like Burke and Wills or Scott of the Antartic for a while. Actually more like Burke and Wills I think as it was pretty hot.

Finally, finally, finally we arrived back in Kampala at about 10pm. We got caught in the obligatory 'jam' which always adds the the adventure and uncertainly of road travel in Uganda. It could take one hour, it could take four. One just has to go with the flow really.

So Jinja was fabulous, we had a great weekend away and will definitely go back sometime soonish.

So let's see what this week brings, don't know really what to expect yet. That's what I am enjoying about life in Kampala, you never really know what is going to happen or when, its crazy really. So until next week.......

Ode to Sunburn

2009-10-12T18:08:00.002+11:00

I went to the country club and lay in the sun
It seemed harmless enough and oh so much fun
Unfortunately I left my sunscreen elsewhere
And the sun scorched me fiercely as my skin is so fair
Gosia was smart she had factor one thousand and one
I shall borrow that next time I go out in the Ugandan sun
But now my skin is itching and peeling and weepy
I looked in the mirror and it's a little bit creepy
Enough of this now you think I would have learned
That if you forget your sunscreen you're gonna get burned

The Lows..The Highs..Bucket Showers and Carbohydrates

2009-10-03T19:02:00.003+10:00

Well, well its been quite a week. Starting work promised to be so wonderful but in reality it was pretty challenging. Our employers had been instructed that we had two weeks of observation and induction, so after expecting this when I arrived at the agreed time I waited an hour (waiting is a skill you have to learn quickly in Africa) and had two hour orientation then was told I could go to my office and start work. It was pretty confusing to say the least. That was Monday but Tuesday was worse. Being a very brave and courageous person (just like a lioness) on Wednesday I set out some objectives and went to my boss with them. Surprisingly that all went swimmingly well and each day got better after that, so now I am feeling very positive again...

That's enough about work. Outside work there has been lots of socialising, sweating, dodging potholes, cars and motorbikes and trying to make sense of this delightfully off-beat city. The house I am staying in at the moment has lots of very hot water but no shower. So it's a bucket shower for me. You kind of get good at it after a while and it starts to feel quite normal. I can't bring myself to go the the trouble of washing the hair though with this system - it just seems like far too much trouble. After the hair challenge though I know I can successfully last seven more weeks so all is good.

The food is interesting. It is certainly carbohydrate rich. There is mushed steamed banana called Matoke, you are ment to love it but in reality it should be banned or used to fill the potholes perhaps. There is another special arrangement made from casava flour which I can only liken to solidified clag glue, it is truly something to behold. Luckily there is plenty of fresh produce around to lighten the load. Oh I'd better not get started on the meat, Ugandans seem to prefer to knuckly, gristley, boney bits so popular with Olive and Earl.....

Well that's enough for now, generally life is good and there is something new to discover around every corner......

One Night in Kampala

2009-10-01T22:28:00.002+10:00

It's five in the taxi parks and everything is fine,
But the taxis aren't moving they just stand in line.
Maybe you'll find away across to the other side,
But watch out for the muddy potholes, you might take a slide.
The Nile Special is special what more can I say,
A fine way to bid farewell to the day.
The babies are begging out in the night,
It's time to go home now it's a pretty sad sight.
As darkness descends the taxis move a bit faster,
Best get out of the way or you may end up in plaster.
It's home in the taxi for the brave and courageous,
We'll be back at the weekend, what will become of us!

K-k-krazy Kampala, the first week

2009-09-26T00:07:00.002+10:00

Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's hard to believe it has been exactly a week today since I arrived in Uganda. What a week it has been. First of all I though I would never get here is was such a long journey - 24 hour from Melbourne to Uganda kind of felt like a really bad joke by the end of it - but never the less I eventually arrived. There was no time for rest. Training started the very next day with classroom lessons and a fabulous walk around central Kampala. The taxi parks are something to behold, they must be the most chaotic places in Africa and possibly the world. It's the beginning of the rainy season so there has been a bit of that which just acts to add the the mayhem. You should see the potholes. One just doesn't expect to see potholes in the middle of a capital city, not ones you could fall down anyway.

The people in my training group are amazing, a really diverse group from all over the world and I have made some firm friends already. The volunteers already here in Kampala held a party for us on Saturday night which was really good. Our first day and into it already, it was a bit overwhelming at times. So many new faces and names.

We went to see some Ugandan dancing and drumming which was pretty spectacular and a pretty good way to get fit I would think. We also had an incredible Ugandan woman come and share her story of living with HIV/AIDS with us which brought me to tears. Some of the issues to come will be confronting I am certain.

Today I met my employers and moved from the training centre to central Kampala. The employers were fabulous and really motivating and engaging. The looked after me really well and I am really looking forward to starting work - although it is a challenge of momunental preportions.

My house in Kampala is not sorted out so I am staying with some fellow volunteers for a few weeks until it all comes together which I am sure it will eventually.

I am hoping to be brave and venture out alone at the weekend and hit the markets to get some clothes for work. Ugandan's are very well dressed they put me to shame really, so I guess I'd better look the part.

Currently it is the end of a very long week and I am a bit exhausted, but there is pizza and dancing tonight to say hello and goodbye to the arrivals (me) and the departures (not me). So I guess I should dust myself out and check out the Kampala nightlife - apparently it's something else.

Will add photos soon.

So the story continues...what will the next week bring I wonder.......

My Last Night In Oz

2009-09-16T19:48:00.002+10:00

Here I am in Melbourne on the night before I fly out to Uganda for two years. The last few weeks have been a whirlwind of emotions and activities. The lowlight was saying farewell to the fine golden retrievers - Earl and Olive - and the highlight the family farewell, the last chance drinks and of course dressing up as a gorilla for my work farewell.

Thanks for all the farewells and I'll see you from the other side, stay tuned......

Welcome to my Blog

2009-08-21T07:06:00.000+10:00

Welcome to my blog as I prepare to depart for Uganda for two years. I will be teaching nurses through the university and in the hospitals of Kampala. At the moment however life is extremely busy getting ready to leave. The dogs need a new home - they are leaving for their very own holiday on 31 August - and the house needs to be rented. Then it will be on the packing, which is a bit of a mystery to me at the moment but I guess it will all come together. One week left to work, can't wait to finish there are so many other things to do at the moment work kind of gets in the way.

So that it for now......