Looking back on my Christmas safari around Uganda it is hard to know how to describe it properly or where to begin. So I'll just start at the beginning and hope that I can do it justice.
It all started with a death defying drive to Lake Mburo (thanks Wayne). I particularly enjoyed the near misses, the sudden braking and hurtling along the shoulder of the road hoping to avoid a number of large heavy vehicles without slowing down. Although it looked unlikely at times, we arrived safely at Lake Mburo and set up camp under the watchful gaze of a spectacular sunset. We set off the next morning on a game drive on an ever disappearing road which was eventful and time-consuming. We saw many of the creatures that Lake Mburo is known for - zebra, impala, warthogs, topi, birds too numerous to mention, monkeys, warthogs, bush pigs, buffalo, hippos oh and did I mention warthogs. No rare red tree climbing warthogs, still looking for them!
A relatively uneventful drive delivered us the breathtakingly spectacular Lake Bunyoni. In the misty morning light we took a very special boat ride around the various islands of the lake and soaked up the atmosphere and the surroundings. Then it was off to Bwindi with great anticipation for the mountain gorillas. Of course '.. it wasn't the road that Anthony took...'. Yeah, yeah I think that there was a reason for that - it wasn't the road to Bwindi!!! After a three hour detour and another wrong turn we were actually on the road to Bwindi passed the placenta pit and the dodgy road works that you had to pay to go through. Finally there we were in the Impenetrable Forest home to 320 of the last remaining 750 mountain gorillas.
Ah it was all about the GORILLAS. There was a great deal of exitement and anticipation as we set out on the trek of a lifetime. The gorilla permit costs $500 each so it is something one would only really do once in one's life so I was planning to enjoy every minute. The Universe didn't fail to deliver here either, after a ten minute trek (some people trek for up to six hours) we were in the company of about 18 mountain gorillas of all ages and sizes. We were only allowed to spend one hour with them and although when we were with them time seemed to stand still, when it was over it felt like the quickest hour of my life. Words don't really do justice to the experience, it was very special and humbling and magical all at the same time. We spent the afternoon walking in the forest to a series of waterfalls which was pretty spectacular. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest if you ever get the chance go there you will never regret it and never forget it.
Leaving Bwindi and her mountain gorillas behind we headed off to Ishasha. Ishasha there it is again, I just love that word - ISHASHA. Ah yet again she didn't disappoint, Christmas eve saw two lions in a tree and hopes were high for Christmas day. I had earlier asked Santa for two lions in a tree and a leopard for Christmas and I had also drunk some South African wine with the picture of a leopard on the label to give me good leopard karma. Things went a little wrong when we got stuck in a bog for six hours and we had to dig and jack and search for big logs while everyone at home was indulging in turkey, ham, raspberries, pudding with brandy sauce and chocolate covered almonds among other things. We ran out of water and had no lunch but thankfully after alot of hard work we exited the bog at around five thirty! Apparently as it turns out good things happen to those who wallow in mud for six hours. On the way back to our camp Santa, who had had his laugh for the day, delivered up a spectacular leopard in a tree. We were blessed to be able to spend about half an hour with the leopard (we named him Santa) as he did leopard things. He got out of the tree, he sat in the grass, he walked about, he flicked his beautiful tail, he sat on a rock, he marked his territory, he climbed another tree, he surveyed the savana to check for prey and finally he walked away. Magic is the only way to describe it, and for days later I kept checking my camera to confirm that we did actually see a leopard.
We headed to the northern section of QENP and saw two more tree climbing lions. What do lions eat again - people I think if they get out of the vehicle. We stayed at the spectacular campsite number two by the channel but there was tension brewing in the camp. The next day after confirming with google what a rainforest was, luckily Wayne was right all along, we arrived in the foothills of the Rwenzori where we had a spectacular trek in the forest for three hours. Tensions boiled over in the camp over a two second tent. Its a long story but the next day we said goodbye to one of our group and headed off the Murchison Falls, never looking back really.
Murchison Falls were as spectacular as ever and we had a fabulous experience trekking the chimpanzees. At one stage we were surrounded by chimps they were mostly above us and occasionally the odd leaf or branch came down on our heads. One of the lady chimps was on heat and a rather raucous fight ensued which was a little scarey to say the least. But all was forgiven and there was even some chimp mating going on, I had to avert my eyes for a while, well only for a few seconds really because it didn't take too long!
We had a fine time in camp in Murchison as our guide passed out by ten pm, not sure why, but anyway we painted his toe and finger nails and generally took advantage of him while he was sleeping. It wasn't my idea of course and I would like to absolve myself of any responsibility. He spoke of revenge, but it never eventuated which I was thankful for.
We had a fine boat trip up the Nile to Lake Albert passed numerous hippos, huge crocodiles and a fleeting sighting of the very rare shoebill bird. We then spent the night in Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary and had the pleasure of walking with their newest arrival Augustu and his mum Bella and her new boyfriend. There was a bit of tension in the rhino camp and Bella got grumpy with the boyfriend and they both started running towards us. But after goillas, leopard, lions, chimps and all the other creatures the rhino incident hardly even registered with us. Looking back now we were pretty lucky to see the baby who was only born in October and even luckier to see the rhinos so fired up and active.
So it was back to Jinja, although we nearly didn't make it after a very close encounter with a truck exiting a petrol station but I think that we came off better than the matoke that the innocent bystander was carrying!
Then it was New Year's Eve and it was perhaps the most bizzare nye yet, highlighted by a facinating fireworks display. The fireworks didn't really go very high into the air so you felt like you were being shot everytime one went off, there was much screaming in the audience. Of course not all the fireworks seemed to go off and there was alot of smoke filling the venue which luckily was open air. We were a bit worried about surrounding thatched roofs though. Somehow tragedy was averted and we live to tell another story.
So that was it then, the Ugandan Christmas Safari over and done with. Now its back in Kampala and I have discovered a new disease called PSMD. It is also known as Post Safari Mood Disorder and it is affecting many who were out and about in Uganda over Christmas. I think I have a serious case of PSMD but I am hoping to cure it with a trip to Sipi Falls this weekend and a safari in Kidepo national park in a couple of weeks.
Until then I will always be on safari in my mind.........
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
Endangered but Cherished
They said '...be prepared you may have to trek all day',
But ten minutes was all it took, we hardly went out of our way.
And then there he was lounging up against a tree,
The silverback relaxed right in front of me.
I caught my breath at the sight of this spectacular creature,
His shimmering silver torso was his finest feature.
His ladies were foraging in the trees up high,
He was waiting for them to come down so he could move on by.
We went deeper into the forest hoping for more of his family to meet,
Gradually the gorillas surrounded us, it was truly a treat.
The tiny baby clung tightly to her mum,
Others were tumbling and playing, having lots of fun.
Only 750 mountain gorillas remain on this earth,
The joy and happiness they bring, proves their true worth.
On a very special day they welcomed me into their home,
May they always be with us, free to forage and roam.
But ten minutes was all it took, we hardly went out of our way.
And then there he was lounging up against a tree,
The silverback relaxed right in front of me.
I caught my breath at the sight of this spectacular creature,
His shimmering silver torso was his finest feature.
His ladies were foraging in the trees up high,
He was waiting for them to come down so he could move on by.
We went deeper into the forest hoping for more of his family to meet,
Gradually the gorillas surrounded us, it was truly a treat.
The tiny baby clung tightly to her mum,
Others were tumbling and playing, having lots of fun.
Only 750 mountain gorillas remain on this earth,
The joy and happiness they bring, proves their true worth.
On a very special day they welcomed me into their home,
May they always be with us, free to forage and roam.
Monday, January 4, 2010
Christmas Cats
In December 2009 I sat on Santa's knee,
And I asked for a leopard as well as two lions in a tree.
I assured him that I'd been a very good girl,
It would be a fine way to end a year that flew by in a whirl.
Christmas eve he delivered a tree with two lions lounging within,
What a magical way for Christmas to begin.
Now Santa for the leopard, it's a simple request,
For Christmas in Ishasha you should bring out the best.
But Santa's got a dark side, he likes to have a bit of fun,
So he sent us six hours stuck in a bog in the sun.
We were covered in mud, hungry, thirsty and tired,
This was a pretty strange Christmas, I could have broken down and cried.
Then suddenly in the distance there was a cat in a tree,
Stop! Back up! There's a lion up there, cried Nathalie.
But no lion exists with such a curl in his tail,
This was a Christmas leopard, I knew Santa wouldn't fail.
The next thirty minutes were spent in the leopard's company,
It was a magical Christmas for the wild and the free.
So thank you to Santa and every large predatory cat,
I'd like a cheetah in 2010 if you can arrange that
And I asked for a leopard as well as two lions in a tree.
I assured him that I'd been a very good girl,
It would be a fine way to end a year that flew by in a whirl.
Christmas eve he delivered a tree with two lions lounging within,
What a magical way for Christmas to begin.
Now Santa for the leopard, it's a simple request,
For Christmas in Ishasha you should bring out the best.
But Santa's got a dark side, he likes to have a bit of fun,
So he sent us six hours stuck in a bog in the sun.
We were covered in mud, hungry, thirsty and tired,
This was a pretty strange Christmas, I could have broken down and cried.
Then suddenly in the distance there was a cat in a tree,
Stop! Back up! There's a lion up there, cried Nathalie.
But no lion exists with such a curl in his tail,
This was a Christmas leopard, I knew Santa wouldn't fail.
The next thirty minutes were spent in the leopard's company,
It was a magical Christmas for the wild and the free.
So thank you to Santa and every large predatory cat,
I'd like a cheetah in 2010 if you can arrange that
Ode to Wayne
In the wilds of Uganda, he's not sure what's a road and what's not,
What once was a road seemed to disappear quite a lot.
He can sniff out a gorilla where it's not supposed to be,
Perhaps they are kindred spirits both wandering and free.
He's fun to spend Christmas with, six hours stuck in a bog,
And a never ending quest to find a big log.
All was forgiven with a leopard and a smile,
A day to remember for quite a while.
The champagne brought him undone, down and out by ten,
He awoke with black and gold nails, how could that happen.
Wayne is so brave, in the frontline of the fireworks display,
He protected me from so many dangers that day.
Sometimes he is naughty and sometimes he is nice,
But if he passes out before midnight, he's gonna pay the price.
What once was a road seemed to disappear quite a lot.
He can sniff out a gorilla where it's not supposed to be,
Perhaps they are kindred spirits both wandering and free.
He's fun to spend Christmas with, six hours stuck in a bog,
And a never ending quest to find a big log.
All was forgiven with a leopard and a smile,
A day to remember for quite a while.
The champagne brought him undone, down and out by ten,
He awoke with black and gold nails, how could that happen.
Wayne is so brave, in the frontline of the fireworks display,
He protected me from so many dangers that day.
Sometimes he is naughty and sometimes he is nice,
But if he passes out before midnight, he's gonna pay the price.
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