Monday, October 26, 2009

Rhinos, waterfalls and speed bumps


Wow that was a fine way to spend a weekend. We departed Kampala early to head off into the bush but man we didn't expect to have to encounter the speed bumps from hell - what were they thinking. Road travel is always an adventure in Uganda! There was a section of road just outside Masindi on the way to Murchison Falls National Park that is kind of under-construction. In order to prevent cars from traveling too fast there are a series of speed bumps. Actually there are thousands of them about two car lengths apart for about eight kilometers. Of course they just appeared, so there were a few minor head injuries going over the first few before we planted ourselves and hoped to survive without a traumatic brain injury or serious neck issues. Luckily I guess, as I am not sure what the Rehab facilities are like here!

Anyway apart from the speed bumps and the puncture and the frequent visits to gas stations (every hour - must have has the vehicle with the smallest gas tank in history) and the steadily deteriorating roads - we managed to get to Murchison Falls without too much drama!! We stayed in Safari Tents at a pretty cool campsite with resident warthogs. On the way to our home for the weekend we stopped at the top of Murchison Falls which was absolutely breathtaking. The vista looking down the chasm of the Falls to the Nile below was just so stunning and will stay with me forever. There was fabulous light when we were there too so all was very, very fine. The volume and power of the water crashing down was thunderous. If anyone is looking for somewhere to go that's a bit out of the way......

Saturday we went game driving but we missed seeing the lion by slighly more than a whisker. Some others saw her though, and she was a beauty. We had to settle for giraffe, elephants, hippos, heartibeasts, cobs, a variety of birds and more than a couple of warthogs. After dodging the apple eating baboon we set out on an afternoon of leisure on the Nile. We took a boat trip to see the Falls from the river. It was a sensational afternoon. We saw hippos, even an albino one and a herd running which was a very amusing sight. There were also crocodiles and elephants and birds and hippos and hippos and hippos. Oh and did I mention we saw some hippos. They are in no danger of extinction, in fact they are may just be taking over the world. Can someone let me know if they are spotted in the Derwent! The Falls from the Nile were pretty special as well and we floated along the river back to our camp as the sun was setting over the Nile, it was magic really. Had to celebrate with a Nile Special of course.

On Sunday we made tracks back to Kampala and stopped at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. Rhinos became extinct in Uganda after the turmoil of the last decades but they are setting about reintroducing them and doing a fabulous job. You can trek to see some rhinos. They are not totally wild but hopefully eventually will be and the rhino will be back in the forests of Uganda. We treked only a short while in the grasslands before we found a couple of rhinos. A male and female, I couldn't believe how close we got to them. The male got up at one stage and we got a really good look at him. Not really a traditionally handsome creature but spectacular nevertheless. I was a bit worried with my experience of being chased by a Nepali rhino in the forefront of my mind. This couple were pretty docile however and not so interested in charging us - thankfully.

Oh then it was back to Kampala and the cold reality of fearing for one's life with every footstep. Oh Kampala, I love you and your tretcherous streets and person sized potholes and cows and goats in the middle of the road and crazy drivers. How joyful it is to know one has survived the roads for another day........

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