Magic moments and a false sense of disappointment

A week out west seemed to be just the thing to celebrate six weeks in Uganda. When settling into a strange new world one needs a little adventure to keep one motivated and inspired. Although inspiration is not something I need to go looking for in Uganda, I find it all around me everyday.

So the week started with an excursion over the equator to Lake Mburo and a fine cruise on the river at sunset, followed by a magical evening by the campfire under a clear sky and a full moon. In the morning while walking the leopard was near. The impalas had spotted him but he was too slick for us. Although evidence of the leopard is all around I wont be convinced of its existence until I spot one with my own two eyes. I think someone invented the myth of the leopard to keep people returning to Africa in the hope of seeing the elusive creature.

Hopes were high as we ventured into Ishasha. Hmmmmn ISHASHA I just love the sound to the word. But is more than just a word, it just could be paradise. As the light was failing we ventured out in search of the famous Tree Climbing Lions of Ishasha. The sun was setting, time was running out, there was a sense of disappointment...... a false sense of disappointment as it turned out as there lounged the lions high off the ground in a lone fig tree as the sun set behind us. It was a truely amazing sight which almost defies words. As the sun set, the full moon took over, it was a very special time, moments that will stay with me forever. Reluctantly we left the lions in the tree and set up our tents in the dark. The night held a multitude of interesting noises. At one stage the baboons went crazy - was there a predator near? A leopard perhaps?????

The next morning we had a wonderful drive in the savanah but the previous evening had wet our appetite for tree climbing lions, we weren't satisfied. Alas there seemed to be no lions in the trees this morning there was a sense of disappointment....... a false sense of disappointment as it turned out as close to our campsite was a lioness in a tree. She was uncomfortable, hot and bothered. I think she had just picked the wrong tree poor lady. After wiggling and snarling for a while she very ungainfully got down from her tree, had a big wee and disappeared into the thickets, away from prying eyes. It was with slightly heavy hearts that we bid farewell to Ishasha and her lions and said hello to the Bush Camp, another slice of paradise in Queen Elizabeth National Park. The outdoor bathroom was something to behold. There just something truly wild about showering to the serenade of hippos, warthogs and a million unidentified birds and insects.

With a rainy start to the day we set off to Mweya. There was a sense of disappointment.....but the rain cleared and we took a wonderful journey by boat on the channel. There were many, many hippos, buffalos, birds and even crocodiles. But our expectations were high, we wanted to see elephants. But where they are usually many there was only one. High on a hill stood a lonley elephant singing yodelli-yodelli-yo-ho-ho. There was a sense of disappointment......a false sense of disappointment as it turned out as on our journey back to the bush camp we saw far away elephants that got closer and closer and converged to cross the road just behind our vehicle. There were big ones and little ones and even some elephant kissing going on, we felt very special. We left the ellies behind and continued our journey with the Rwenzori mountains reflecting in the lakes as we drove by. Hmmmn we thought now for some regular grounds dwelling lions. We took a detour on our lion hunt but the grazing creatures of the savanah were looking a bit too relaxed. No lions tonight, but we had been lucky in Ishasha. Still we where keen for lions and there was a sense of disappointment...... a false sense of disappointment for there in the grass were a couple of lions cubs popping their heads up. And what was that dark shadow near the truck.... we had stumbled upon the whole pride. A big black maned male, a lioness and three mischevious cubs, we felt truly blessed. We watched the family frollicking for ages and just as we were thinking we would leave them to get ready for hunting, another lioness appeared from behind bush. Who she? We all exclaimed. Then there was a movement in the grass. What's that? Oh my goodness, she had with her two tiny cubs who mustn't have been more than a few weeks old. They can't have been back with the pride for long. The lioness goes away to have her cubs and keeps them hidden for a while before she returns to the fold. It was a really special time to share with the pride with all the generations. I never wanted to leave. Life surely doesn't get any better than this.

After a contented sleep dreaming of lions of all sizes we set off into the gorge the next day on foot in search of our closest relative the chimpanzee. It was hard work in the forest, we searched and we searched and we searched, three hours went by and we were still searching. Twisting and turning, being bitten by ants. Reality hit, we may not get to see the chimps. There was a sense of disappointment....... a false sense of disappointment as it turned out as suddenly there was a commotion, screaching and scrambling, the forest came alive. There they were. We spent an amazing 20 minutes or so with the chimps trying to observe then, snap their picture and follow their movements. They were amazing and so human in their expressions and behaviours, it was very special.

So it was offical there was no disappointment to be endured. The universe was truly looking after us. We reluctantly retreated from the Ugandan bush and headed to Fort Portal and some home cooking, a challenging bike ride, a hike up a number of steep hills and a beer hair rinse, all in the name of science! Hmmmn did I say a beer hair rinse??? Well that's another story.......